Painting by Cuban artist Alicia Leal hanging in the studio she shares with artist Juan Moreira.

Cuba

by Eve Andersson


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I love Cuba. It is beautiful, safe, and not overly westernized. The people are warm and kind to visitors, including those from the United States, which has subjected Cuba to a painful, long-standing trade embargo. I traveled to Cuba in 2013 (legally, of course, via a people-to-people licence), and was sad to leave at the end of the trip. Havana is not a place to go for luxury travel, but rather for learning, music, art, and novel experiences.

These photos are from Havana and the nearby city of Matanzas.

Classic Cars

It's well-known that people still drive classic cars in Cuba. However, there are many newer cars on the road as well, especially Hyundais and Kias. Havana has good roads and traffic seems very light (no honking, lots of space between vehicles). Passengers are often tightly packed; it's not unusual to see six or seven people in one car.

Gold car on the Malecón. Police car near Parque de la Libertad (Liberty Park). Yellow car and red house, Avenida Santa Amalia, La Víbora neighborhood. Green car, Calle Perla, La Víbora neighborhood. Blue and white car, La Rampa. Black and white taxis in front of El Capitolio. Woman walking past a hot pink car, Paseo del Prado. Green car and red and black car, 41st Avenue. Orange and black taxi, Avenida Salvador Allende (Carlos III). Dark grey car, corner of 25th Street and L Street. Red and white car, 19th Avenue. Green, blue and white cars in front of El Capitolio. Blue car on the Malecón. Green and white car, Calzada 10 de Octubre. Coco taxis and blue car, Malecón. Red and white car, Avenida Salvador Allende (Carlos III). Red and green cars, Paseo del Prado. Blue and white car, Calzada 10 de Octubre.

Sometimes the cars aren't in such good shape, spewing smoke or undergoing roadside maintenance.

Blue car, smoking, corner of 25th Street and L Street. Broken down car, corner of O Street and 25th Street. Broken down blue car, Calle Padre Varela (Belonscoain). Broken down yellow car, Calle Padre Varela (Belonscoain).

Propaganda

There are no product advertisements in Cuba. But that doesn't mean there are no billboards, banners, or signs. On the contrary, it's not unusual to look up and see a quote from José Martí, an important figure in the battle for independence from Spain, or a larger-than life image of Che Guevara, the Argentine who helped Fidel Castro win the Revolution. No wall is immune; I saw even a children's playground with an image of Che and the word "Paz" ("Peace").

The first of these, below, is particularly telling; translated, it says, "Year 55 of the Revolution," implying that the Revolution is ongoing.

Banner reading "Año 55 de la Revolución" ("Year 55 of the Revolution"), implying the revolution is ongoing. Playground, with a picture of Che Guevara and the words "Paz" ("Peace") and "Justicia para todos" ("Justice for all"). Billboard on Avenida de la Independencia saying: "Unidos por un Socialismo próspero y sostenible" ("United for a prosperous and sustainable Socialism"). A UJC (Young Communist League) logo, with the words "Estudio" ("Study"), "Trabajo" ("Work"), and "Fusil" ("Rifle"), painted on a wall at O Street and Humbolt. Couple walking past a wall painted with the word "Unidos", part of "Unidos, Vigilantes, y Combativos" ("United, Vigilant, and Combative"). On Avenida de la Independencia, a wall painted with "Unidos, Vigilantes, y Combativos" ("United, Vigilant, and Combative"), "8 Congreso" ("8th Congress"), "En cada barrio" ("In every neighborhood"), and "CDR" (Committees for the Defense of the Revolution); and a billboard with José Martí next to the words "Uno de los hombres más lúcidos y útiles de Cuba" ("One of the most lucid and useful men of Cuba"), "Aniversario 116 de su caída en combate" ("116th anniversary of his death in combat"), and "Aniversario 23 de la Operación Tributo" ("23rd anniversary of the Operation Tribute"). A sign near the airport reading, "Bloque. El genocidio más large de la historia." This refers to the United States' trade embargo against Cuba, saying it's the longest genocide in history. Billboard saying "Fin a la injusticia!" ("End to the injustice!"), referring to the Cuban Five: five Cuban men who were controversially imprisoned in the United States in 1998. Faded letters painted on the wall spelling "Revolución". Billboard with a quote by José Martí: "Con todos y para el bien de todos" ("With all, and for the good of all") Billboard saying "Auténtica Cuba, donde nace el talento mundial" ("Authentic Cuba, where world talent is born"). Billboard with quote from José Martí: "De la América soy hijo, y a ella me debo" ("I am a son of America, and am indebted to her"). Words by José Martí painted on a wall on Avenida de la Independencia: "En la agricultura, como en todo, preparar bien. Ahorrar tiempo, desengaños y riesgos." ("In agriculture, as in everything, prepare well. Save time, disappointment, and risk.") Words painted on a wall on Avenida de la Independencia: "Fieles a nuestra historia" ("Faithful to our history."). Billboard on Avenida de la Independencia saying: "Gracias Che por tu ejemplo" ("Thank you, Che [Guevara], for your good example"). Smokestack. Painted on the wall in small letters: "Con Fidel y la Revolución en la batalla de ideas" ("With Fidel and the Revolution in the battle of ideas"). Words by Che Guevara painted on a wall on Avenida de la Independencia: "La revolución es para llevarla en el alma y morir por ella, no para llevarla en los labios y vivir de ella." ("The revolution is to carry in your soul and to die for, not to carry on your lips and live from.") Billboard on Avenida de la Independencia saying: "Preferimos aferrarnos a la esperanza" ("We prefer to cling to hope"). Words painted on a wall on Avenida de la Independencia: "Revolución". Inside the "O", it says "con la guardia en alto" ("with their guard up") and "CDR" (Committees for the Defense of the Revolution). Words by Che Guevara painted on a wall on Avenida de la Independencia: "Sin control no podemos construir el Socialismo" ("Without control, we cannot build Socialism"). Painted on a wall on Avenida de la Independencia: intertwined Cuban and Venezuelan flags with the words "Solidaridad no es dar lo que nos sobra / solidaridad es compartir lo que tenemos" ("Solidarity is not giving what's left over; solidarity is sharing what we have"); "Los cambios en Cuba son para més Socialismo" ("The changes in Cuba are for more Socialism"); and (behind the tree) a quote from Che Guevara: "Sin control no podemos construir el Socialismo" ("Without control, we cannot build Socialism"). Words painted on a wall on Avenida de la Independencia: "Viva Cuba"; "50 de vanguardia"; "vamos x más"; "Revolución". Billboard on Avenida de la Independencia, saying: "¡Exigimos justicia! Aniversario 36 del sabotaje al avió cubano en Barbados" ("We demand justice! 36th anniversary of the sabotage of the Cuban airplane in Barbados"). People walking past words painted on a wall saying "Fieles a nuestra historia" ("Faithful to our history"), Avenida Simon Bolivar (Calle Reina). Billboard with a quote from Che Guevara, "Vale, pero millones de veces más la vida de un solo ser humano de todos los propiedades del hombre más rico de la tierra" ("The life of one single human being is worth millions of times more than all the property of the richest man in the world"), on the Hospital Universitario General Calixto García. Billboard with a quote from Raúl Castro: "La batalla económica constitute hoy, más que nunca, la tarea principal..." ("Today, more than ever, the economic battle is our main task..."). Billboard reading "54 años de luchas y victorias" ("54 years of battles and victory"), Plaza de la Revolución. Banner reading, "Unidad, firmeza y victoria" ("Unity, firmness, and victory") near Parque de la Libertad (Liberty Park). Sign above door reading, "Seguimos en combate" ("We continue in combat") near Parque de la Libertad (Liberty Park).

Music

Abdala Studios

Cuba has a state-of-the-art recording studio, owned by the state (as most things are), which has produced albums by artists such as Cesaria Evora and, from Buena Vista Social Club, Compay Segundo.

Sign, Abdala Studios. Studio 3, Abdala Studios. Musicians performing at Abdala Studios, including Oliver Valdés on drums, Carlos Miyares on saxophone, and Emilio Morales on piano.

Grupo Afrocuba de Matanzas

This impressive group preserves the rhythms and dance of its members' African ancestors.

Dancer, Grupo Afrocuba de Matanzas. Dancer, Grupo Afrocuba de Matanzas. Dancer, Grupo Afrocuba de Matanzas. Dancer, Grupo Afrocuba de Matanzas. Dancers, Grupo Afrocuba de Matanzas. Dancers, Grupo Afrocuba de Matanzas. Dancers, Grupo Afrocuba de Matanzas. Dancers, Grupo Afrocuba de Matanzas. Dancers, Grupo Afrocuba de Matanzas.

La Zorra y El Cuervo

This club, which you enter through a phone booth, is one of several jazz venues in Havana.

Phone booth entrance to La Zorra y el Cuervo jazz club. Sign, La Zorra y el Cuervo jazz club. Musicians on stage, La Zorra y el Cuervo jazz club.

Musicians

I was lucky enough to hear and meet other talented musicians in Havana, including the superb singer Dayme Arocena Uribarri. Her jazz vocals are incredible, especially the low notes.

Singer Dayme Arocena Uribarri, performing at a private home in Miramar. Singer Dayme Arocena Uribarri, performing at a private home in Miramar. Singer Dayme Arocena Uribarri, performing at a private home in Miramar. Singer Dayme Arocena Uribarri, performing at a private home in Miramar.
Guitarist Hector Quintana, performing at a private home in Miramar. Trombonist Eduardo Sandoval, performing at a private home in Miramar. Drummer Julio Cesar, performing at a private home in Miramar. Double bassist Omar Gonzales, performing at a private home in Miramar. Trumpet player Yasek Manzano Silva and double bassist Omar Gonzales, performing at a private home in Miramar.

Art

Alicia Leal and Juan Moreira

These talented painters are married and share a studio in the Vedado neighborhood. Some of Juan's works are overtly sexual.

Cuban artist Alicia Leal in the studio she shares with artist Juan Moreira. Painting by Cuban artist Alicia Leal hanging in the studio she shares with artist Juan Moreira. Cuban artists Juan Moreira and Alicia Leal in their studio. Cuban artist Juan Moreira in front of his artwork in the studio he shares with Alicia Leal. Studio of Cuban artists Juan Moreira and Alicia Leal.

Fusterlandia

Stylistically inspired by Antoni Gaudí and Pablo Picasso, the artist José Fuster is transforming his entire community – a humble neighborhood called Jaimanitas – into an ambitious art project known as "Fusterlandia".

Viva Cuba, Fusterlandia. Hugo Chávez Mural, Fusterlandia. Yellow face, Fusterlandia. Crocodile, Fusterlandia. Words on a wall: "Me desordeno" ("I make a mess of myself"), Fusterlandia. Man with hat, Fusterlandia. Artist José Fuster in Fusterlandia. Fusterlandia.
Stairs with faces, Fusterlandia. Pool with drawing of a woman, Fusterlandia. Roof with sunshine mosaic, Fusterlandia. Tile with a man on a horse, Fusterlandia. Man with dog, Fusterlandia. Tile with red and grey paint, Fusterlandia. White face, Fusterlandia. Woman, Fusterlandia. Dove and yin-yang symbol, Fusterlandia. Big, red heart, Fusterlandia.

Community Projects

Abraham Lincoln Cultural Center

This dance studio in Matanzas helps children, who might otherwise be left without role models, develop their talents.

Girl performing, Abraham Lincoln Cultural Center. Sign, Abraham Lincoln Cultural Center. Children dancing, Abraham Lincoln Cultural Center. Practice room, Abraham Lincoln Cultural Center. Children performing, Abraham Lincoln Cultural Center. Boy peeking into the window of the Abraham Lincoln Cultural Center. Girls dancing, Abraham Lincoln Cultural Center. Children performing, Abraham Lincoln Cultural Center. Boy singing, Abraham Lincoln Cultural Center. Girls performing, Abraham Lincoln Cultural Center.

Proyecto Salsita

In Havana, children create papier-mâché artwork under the tutelage of Lázaro Medina.

Girl making a papier-mâché fruit, Proyecto Salsita. Girl making a papier-mâché fruit, Proyecto Salsita. Papier-mâché mouse, Proyecto Salsita. Children, making papier-mâché fruits, Proyecto Salsita. Children, making papier-mâché fruits, Proyecto Salsita. Children, making papier-mâché fruits, Proyecto Salsita. Lazaro Medina, founder of Proyecto Salsita. Papier-mâché deer, Proyecto Salsita. Cuban flat, Proyecto Salsita.

Proyecto Santa Amalia

Although this project exists to provide music and dance for the elderly, the young people visiting had a heck of a time keeping up on the dance floor with these septugenarians!

Man with a white hat, Proyecto Santa Amalia. Dancers, Proyecto Santa Amalia. Rincon de las personalidades (wall of fame), Proyecto Santa Amalia.

Plaza de la Revolución

This is one of Havana's iconic scenes: the gigantic plaza with images of Che Guevara and Camilo Cienfuegos affixed to government ministry buildings.

Che Guevara depicted on the Ministry of the Interior, Plaza de la Revolución. Camilio Cienfuegos depicted on the Ministry of Communications and Informatics, Plaza de la Revolución. Plaza de la Revolución, with depictions of Che Guevara on the Ministry of the Interior and Camilo Cienfuegos on the Ministry of Communications and Informatics. José Martí memorial, Plaza de la Revolución.

The Malecón

The Malecón is a 8 km-long promenade along the sea. Classic cars cruise down the road, and young friends and lovers pass the time sitting on the sea wall.

The Malecón. Cuban flag and pink and red cars on the Malecón. People sitting on the wall on the Malecón. The Malecón at dusk. Bus on the Malecón. Two boys sitting on the Malecón.

Hotel Nacionál de Cuba

Cuba's National Hotel is a must-see, apparently, for celebrities such as Hugo Chávez and Lisa Loeb, whose photos appear next to each other in the Hall of Fame.

Hotel Nacional de Cuba, viewed from the Malecón. Bartender in the bar of the Hotel Nacional de Cuba. Entrance, Hotel Nacional de Cuba. Hall of fame, showing pictures of famous people who have visited the Hotel Nacional de Cuba. Pictures of famous people who have visited the Hotel Nacional de Cuba, including Hugo Chávez and Lisa Loeb.

Prado

The Prado is a walkable street dividing Old Havana from Central Havana. One attraction on this street is El Capitolio, a building constructed in 1929 to resemble the U.S. Capitol.

Streetlight at dusk, Paseo del Prado. Walk sign with a countdown of remaining seconds, and a Coco taxi, Paseo del Prado. Paseo del Prado. Prado 264 Bar/Restaurante, Paseo del Prado. Green and blue building, corner of Paseo del Prado and Calle Dragones. Movie theatre Cine Payret on Paseo del Prado, playing a Jackie Chan film called Chinese Zodiac. Blue and white building, Paseo del Prado. Colorful buildings and cars, Paseo del Prado. Green and white building, Paseo del Prado. Hotel Saratoga, Paseo del Prado. Star-shaped fountain, Parque Central (Central Park). El Capitolio at dusk, seen from the rooftop of Hotel Saratoga.

Old Havana

Much of this area is pedestrian-only, with some cobblestone streets and one wooden street in the Plaza de Armas (at the request of a governor who was living there and whose wife disliked the nosise).

Convento de San Francisco de Asis, Old Havana. Musicians, Plaza Vieja, Old Havana. Three women walking down Calle Empedrado, Old Havana. Calle San Ignacio, Old Havana. Woman with a fan in the window, Calle Obispo, Old Havana. Woman sweeping using a broom made of plant fronds, Plaza de Armas, Old Havana. Wooden street in front of the Palacio de Los Capitanes Generales, former residence of the governors of Havana, Plaza de Armas, Old Havana. Books, including a "Manuál básico del miliciano de tropas teritoriales" (basic manual of the militia of territorial troops), Plaza de Armas, Old Havana. Havana Cathedral, Old Havana. Family sitting near an open window, Plaza de Armas, Old Havana. Plaza Vieja, Old Havana. Three women passing a flower sculpture, Plaza Vieja, Old Havana. La Conversación by Etienne, Plaza San Francisco de Asis, Old Havana.

Hotel Ambos Mundos

This hotel's claim to fame is that Ernest Hemingway was a regular here.

Bellhop by the elevator, Hotel Ambos Mundos, Old Havana. Photos of Ernest Hemingway, Hotel Ambos Mundos, Old Havana. Lobby, Hotel Ambos Mundos, Old Havana.

More Havana Photos

Mother and child, Calle Zulueta. Sign on the sidewalk in front of the door, Sloppy Joe's Bar. Farmacia (pharmacy), Calle San Lazaro. People standing near columns of a building, Calle Padre Varela (Belonscoain). Morro Castle (Castillo de los Tres Reyes del Morro) with a statue of Miranda at dusk. Glass with a the logo of Havana Club, a Cuban rum producer, at Sloppy Joe's Bar. Movie theatre Cine Lido, playing a Jackie Chan film called Chinese Zodiac. Alba, driver of a Coco taxi, on the Malecón. The experience from within a Coco taxi. Graffiti of a fish/person/bee with the words "el gran zoo" ("the big zoo"), a robot, and other creatures, Avenida Salvador Allende (Carlos III). Buildings with vertical add-ons, Avenida San Francisco. Men playing a board game outside, 25th Street. Woman in front of a yellow building, Calzada 10 de Octubre. Building that appears to have had a bite taken from the top of it, Avenida Salvador Allende (Carlos III). Aqua and peach house, Línea, Vedado. Wall of Flags on the José Martí Anti-Imperialist Platform, in front of the United States Interests Section. Images of two men, probably revolutionaries. One is labeled "Ricardo" and the other "Arturo". 17th Street. View of Havana from Hotel Saratoga at dusk. View of Havana from Plaza de la Revolución. View of Havana from Hotel Saratoga, including Parque Central (Central Park), at night.

More Matanzas Photos

Sign announcing the border of Matanzas Province. View of Matanzas from the Abraham Lincoln Cultural Center. House with slatted windows. Man crossing the street. José Martí statue, Parque de la Libertad (Liberty Park). Parque de la Libertad (Liberty Park). Girls sitting in Parque de la Libertad (Liberty Park). Clothes hanging from window, near Parque de la Libertad (Liberty Park). Bus passing Teatro Velasco near Parque de la Libertad (Liberty Park). Blue car near Parque de la Libertad (Liberty Park). Blue car near Parque de la Libertad (Liberty Park). Brown and beige car near Parque de la Libertad (Liberty Park). Red car, green car, and dark green car near Parque de la Libertad (Liberty Park). Lady crossing bridge over Rio Yumuri. Woman buying something from a vendor in the street. Stop sign ("Pare"). Under the window, someone has written, "Arroje la basura en su casa, no en la mía / El Dueño" ("Throw away garbage in your house, not mine / The Owner").






More photos: View all photos in the directory /photos/cuba/.
Eve Andersson (eve@eveandersson.com)
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